September 1st

"We hear that a company of soldiers have proceeded to Emetzaks (14 miles distant) with 4 guns because of a mutiny amongst the soldiers of two Russian regiments stationed there.

September 2nd

"SS Lord Morten reached us at 6.30 this morning and most of our patients were transferred to her. I had a very enjoyable afternoon ashore, exploring the country around. The people are still hay making. Left Siscoe at 12 noon. Anchored for the night at 9.15. There was a most remarkable phenomenon visible tonight. The moon showed up like a great conflagration, it seemed to lessen somewhat and at last resolved itself into an immense red ball.

September 4th

"Resumed our journey at 4.30 for Archangel reaching Ust Pinega at 1.30. The weather is glorious and after a tremendous storm the sun shines out in full splendour again. The river is very pretty or at least the banks are on either side. We have now about 70 miles to go before reaching Archangel. Most of the fellows are anxious to get there and secure a place on one of the first boats going home. We are travelling at the rate of 5 to 6 miles an hour. The Lord Morten met us just before we reached the bar. We were quite excited when she signalled that there were mails aboard for us. When the mails came there were 5 letters, 2 parcels and newspapers for me. Proceeding we reached Archangel at 5pm and went alongside the Garth Castle transferring all our English patients to her. We lay alongside till this morning.

September 6th

[entered in the diary as August] "When we crossed over to Somalic quay, we evacuated the remaining sick and wounded. Amongst both English and Russian there are some hopeless cases. What our next move will be we are anxious to know. Fifteen ratings are to be drafted to the King Edward in the morning. There has been some anti-aircraft firing today. Rumours are many and various. Bolos are supposed to be about 30 miles away. No one is to be allowed ashore unarmed, murders are frequent. Anyway I went through the city today and all was well. I'm staying on this boat at present. I went inside one of the churches this afternoon. It was most magnificent. All the work, panels etc were overlaid with gold and jewels. The paintings and figures representative of Bible stories, persons, scenes and incidents too were resplendent in polished gold and precious stones. Watching some of those that entered one could understand something of the power that priest craft has upon the national life. Those who entered bowed themselves right to the ground, some even crawling in, each one crossing them selves continuously. The churches are very numerous. Every short distance there is one. Indeed this is a city of churches. The lady who looked after this particular church goes by the name of Mrs or Madam Popoff. We had quite a long conversation together. Her knowledge of the English language was very good. Her husband was Captain Popoff. They had been to England several times. Visiting London, Newcastle etc staying two or three months each time. Captain Popoff has been killed by Bolos. They have 3 children, the two boys being in the Russian Army.

September 7th

[entered in the diary as August] "Fifteen of our company were sent to the SS King Edward before leaving for home. Three barge loads of Russian troops arrived from Ust Pinega and lay alongside and also a barge with field guns and about 100 tons of ammunition. After being so close to the one that blew up and having so close a shave we have no great love for ammunition barges. This evening it has all been unloaded onto the quay but we are still alongside of it.

September 8th

[entered in the diary as August] "We are packing stores preparatory to going alongside the SS Aro and transferring them. This has been a real stormy day, a perfect deluge of rain. When it does rain in Russia why it is wet and no mistake.

September 9th

[entered in the diary as August] "Had a busy day in Archangel buying goods for the officers. Also visited the P.N.T. Office in search of letters. I never saw such indescribable confusion, letters and parcels all over the place. No wonder our letters do not reach us.

September 10th

[entered in the diary as August] "Another stormy day. Discharged a great quantity of foodstuffs. A big ship coming alongside almost smashed our barge. The sides were stove in also our lifeboat had one side stove in. Thousands of logs have broken loose and are floating up river on a strong tide and a heavy wind. Not only is it a loss of a big fortune but they create a serious danger to small boats, steam pinnaces etc. Everything seems to be going adrift in Archangel and indeed all over Russia. The people are greatly upset because the British are clearing out. As soon as we evacuate the Bolos will come in. Then will commence a terrible time for the people. I'm afraid massacres will be a daily occurrence, and also German influence is sure to operate strongly against right and order. There are dark days ahead for Russia. The winter is setting in now. Tonight is very cold and wet.

September 11th

"Disturbing rumours continually reach us of the critical position of some of our troops. The evacuation is proceeding rapidly; many troops and refugees have come down the river today. A very big transport is lying close to us. She is the SS Vedic. She towers high above us. It is intended for her to take refugees to Hull for trans-shipment to Odessa. The harbour is full of shipping.

September 12th

"Another very stormy day. A most interesting sight was to see the hundreds of refugees with their personal belongings coming into the compounds. One long string of droskys loaded with all sorts of refugee's property lined the quayside. There must have been at least 150, and then to see the refugees themselves passing up the gangway into the great Vedic. A long, long trail indeed as though there were no end. It took nearly all day for the procession to pass into the ship. Besides this lot there were about 300 Russian soldiers. They all have an idea that they are going to stay in England but they are doomed to disappointment. Had two letters today. We understand that the last mail is leaving for England tomorrow.

September 13th

"The winter seems to have set in. Each day is cold, wet and stormy. We learn that stiff fighting is going on up the river opposite Tulgas also about 100 miles up the River Yempsa. This river branches off from the Dvina or rather flows into Dvina about 150 miles from Archangel.

September 14th-18th

"All these days have had the usual plethora of rumours. A good number of Bolo prisoners have passed through under charge of Russian guards. Fighting is more general along all the fronts close to Archangel. The Bolos entered Bereznik on Tuesday but were driven out by a party of Blue jackets landed from one of the monitors. We have only two hospital boats up the river now and they are expected down tomorrow. Most of the big transports will be leaving during the next week. I am to be drafted to the SS Aro and from there perhaps to the Baltic. Very white sharp frosts occur most nights now and it is difficult to keep warm in bed even with four blankets. These are very busy days, such large quantities of stores to be packed. We are finally giving up the barge on Monday next the 22nd.

September 19th

"Very many troops have come down the line leaving things in the hands of the Russians. I hope they will show more pluck than they have done previously. A large number of civilians are drilling every evening for the defence of Archangel. Several transports loaded with Russian troops left Saborne quay this afternoon for Bereznik. Great crowds gathered to bid them farewell. They left with parting cheers, the music from a band and much waving of handkerchiefs etc. The soldiers themselves singing the usual Russian songs which consist of about 6 notes. This evening there was a beautiful display of Northern lights. The best I've seen so far. They were like immense waving curtains scintillating with exquisite colours changing very rapidly. The display lasted about an hour. (Those who read these notes must excuse the scribble because of the difficulties under which they are done).

September 20th

"Today has been exceptionally busy. The NACB stores are closing tomorrow and the officers wanted supplies, especially of whiskey and brandy so I had to go and see what could be done. First of all the vodka NACB stores were tried. This meant a long trip down the Troitsky prospect. A blank was drawn here so the next move was to go to Bakaritza which meant a ferry trip across the Dvina taking about an hour. Arriving there I saw an immense fish called a Sea Cow. It had been killed by bombs. It measured 14ft long by 3ft girth. In trying to haul it on to the quay the weight snapped a 3-inch hawser so a steam crane was brought alongside and hauled it out.

"It was at Bakaritza in 1916 that the disastrous explosion occurred which destroyed the largest Russian munitions works causing a great loss of life. I saw some of the effects of the explosion, also the great mound under which are buried some hundreds of those who were killed (about 500). Close to the quay the divers are still working getting up the sunken wreckage, machinery etc which was blown up with the warships lying alongside. The upper parts are still to be seen of a big battleship, which was sunk. Bakaritza is an enormous system of railway lines and store sheds. These are very large nearly all of them rebuilt since 1916. Of course there are dozens of sheds still to be erected. Everything is constructed of timber. The roads are made of wood. Many of the wharves are just simply built up by stacking logs of wood one upon another till they cease to sink and so a landing stage is made.

"My mission to Bakaritza was only partially successful. I just managed to get 6 bottles of whiskey; this occupied my time from 9am till 3pm. The SS Olitzka came down tonight towing the NT 245. This leaves one hospital boat, the Courier, up the river.

"Quite an exciting affair has just occurred. A motor driver took a wrong turn and drove his machine over the side of the quay between the quay and the barge. It hung there in peril but at last another motor got a tow rope on and we got some long poles as levers and finally managed to get it back into safety very little the worse. The driver had a severe shaking and a very narrow escape from drowning.

September 21st

"Sunday but it was scarcely like a Sabbath day. This being our last full day on 332 everything has to be washed up. All the officers' things cleaned. Surplus gear was packed etc. The Courier came alongside during the evening. The Bolos raked her with shrapnel just before they reached Bereznik. Four of the sick berth staff were wounded. A barge loaded with troops was also fired up with machine guns. Eight were killed and a few wounded. Two of our monitors which could not be removed (as they drew too much water) were blown up after being dismantled. The NT 245 has been towed a few miles up the river to bring in the few remaining soldiers. Some trouble is expected in Archangel. Barbed wire defenses are being erected across the entrances to the landing stages and sentries posted at a number of places.

September 22nd

"We are saying "dasfidania" to NT 332, everything possible has been packed but still lots of things are being left behind or dumped. Wouldn't the ratepayers' hearts ache if they did but know what is thrown away? What a revelation? We leave NT 332 with some feelings of regret. All the ships company has been distributed to various homeward bound boats. Some to the Czar, some to the Garth Castle, others to Queen Empress and two of us to the Aro (Seaton and myself). This is a special favour granted to us by the commander as a mark of approval. We got on board at 5pm. We travel as saloon passengers, have stewards to wait on us, and a very nice cabin to ourselves. Our boat leaves for Murmansk on Thursday. The last leave ashore is on Wednesday 24th.

September 23rd

"I went ashore today for a final visit to Archangel. Although there is an element of danger surrounding us yet after all we are somewhat sorry to leave Archangel for we feel that the place will be occupied by the Bolshevicks and many excesses committed. The people generally too are sorry for they fear the future. It has been a profitable time for them, our fellows have spent the greater part of their money in various ways and the city is richer for our visit. Yet it is to be feared that much distress will follow after our departure. The Russian troops are most unreliable. It remains to be seen whether the citizen army has any more stamina.

"The weather is getting very cold and the first appearance of ice has been seen by some of us who get up early enough. We don't mind the cold so much on the Aro because our cabins are nicely warmed with steam pipes. We are very fortunate in getting a passage on so big and comfortable a ship. All the people aboard are kind and most anxious for our comfort giving us a hearty welcome with one exception and that is the chief sick berth steward a fellow named Fugelir a most detestable cad who objects to us because he is an active service rating and we are MMRs. As anyone can guess he is altogether a contemptible thing apart from the fact of his incompetents. We do not desire his company being saloon passengers and quite happy.

September 24th

"Two of the river transports have been taken to the White Sea today and blown up. It was considered that the expense of taking them home would be greater than their value apart from the fact of their unseaworthiness. It can scarcely be said that these paddle steamers have justified the expenditure. Apart from the upkeep I understand that the fitting out of the nine hospital carriers amounted to £2,000,000. Some of them did practically nothing. None have done a great deal. It has been a mismanaged affair altogether.

September 25th

"Weather cold and wet. All the vessels have discharged their surplus food supplies to us. The barges have been finished with. The staff being transferred, to the Czar. This vessel, the Czar, is alongside the quay today taking off the troops from Smolny barracks. All the ships will be gone by Sunday. The hatches have been battened down on our boat and we sail this afternoon. Dasfidania Archangel. When next I see you may it be under happier circumstances.

"Anchor was weighed at 1.50pm. We left our berth at 2pm (having taken the pilot on board the previous night), and proceeded down the river at half speed. The sun was shining gloriously after a very wet morning. Archangel looked really beautiful from the river. Distance certainly lends enchantment in this instance. The golden spires, domes and minarets were glistening in the sunlight. The trees with all the beauty of autumn tints, the whitewashed houses and green slopes all contribute to make a picture of entrancing beauty. Disenchantment awaits those who walk its streets. Passing down the river the scene on both banks was lovely with autumn glory excepting as we passed Maimasea Island, which presented an awful picture of desolation after the terrible fire in July. The gaunt walls of the burnt out factories looked awfully forlorn, the ruins still smouldering; long stretches of quays which recently were covered with tremendous stacks of timber but now nothing but smoking ashes remain. Acres upon acres of ruins representing millions of roubles and this destruction the work of Russians themselves who have been influenced by Bolshevism.

"At 6pm we dropped the pilot at the mouth of the Dvina and now we are out in the White Sea en route for Murmansk.

September 26th

"Arrived at Murmansk at 11.30 anchoring some distance above Alexandrovsk. There is one very amusing incident, which I had almost forgotten to relate. Frequently (whilst lying off Archangel) boats would come alongside with various articles of produce, which the natives brought to exchange for flour, tea, sugar, butter etc. They would bring cabbage, milk, eggs, and live chickens. Two of the men skulkered some flour and other articles for some fowls. They reckoned on getting some eggs. A nice little run was made for the fowls and the two men in question got orders for new laid eggs. Early the next morning they were awakened by a lot of crowing. The two marines were disappointed to find that their hens were cockerels. Of course all the ships company had the news by this time and the two men were mercilessly chaffed about the eggs that were ordered. The poor birds did not live many minutes after this.

September 27th

"The Garth Castle, Hyderabad and Baccus came in this morning. The two former stayed the day then proceeded homewards. No information has reached us yet as to how long we remain here.

September 28th

"The admirals' yacht has gone ashore some little distance astern of our boat. Several tugs are endeavouring to get her off, so far without success. Weather very stormy and cold. A great number of vessels have come in during the last 24 hours. Archangel must be quite evacuated by this time. We are having a good time on this packet. Nice, warm, cosy cabin, good food and plenty of it. Our companions too are sociable and jolly. We have varied our routine today by rifle practice using bottles as targets. I sank two first shot in each instance. Not so bad. We hope to have big gun practice when we get outside again. Lewis gun practice as well.

September 29th

"HMS Cyclops came in today and various other craft from Archangel completing the evacuation. Early this morning there was a magnificent display of Northern lights. It was beautiful in the extreme. After taking 32 officers aboard we sailed at 5.45 for England. In consequence of this unexpected arrival of officers and the shortage of staff I offered my services as a wardroom steward, which were very welcome.

September 30th

"Weather very stormy. Strong head wind. Ship only making nine knots. Sleeping on the poop deck I feel every throb of the screw especially so when the vessel pitches and the stern rises high out of the water. The screw then revolves at a fearful rate shaking the ship from stem to stern.